{"id":100158,"date":"2026-05-14T10:00:15","date_gmt":"2026-05-14T08:00:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dhgshop.it\/?p=100158"},"modified":"2026-06-04T17:54:14","modified_gmt":"2026-06-04T15:54:14","slug":"how-to-knit-a-maxi-tank-top-with-a-t-back-neckline","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dhgshop.performize.io\/en\/how-to-knit-a-maxi-tank-top-with-a-t-back-neckline\/","title":{"rendered":"How to knit a maxi tank top with a T\u2011back neckline"},"content":{"rendered":"

Are you in the mood for a fresh, colourful maxi tank top with a sporty-chic T\u2011back neckline? Just follow this free pattern step by step and you are done. The great thing about this maxi tank top is the yarn: Sailorman is an easy-to-knit pure cotton tape yarn, available in lots of colours and made in Prato.<\/span><\/p>\n

Handmade pieces are incredibly valuable because they are unique and because they take time and passion to create. Do not waste all your effort by choosing low-quality yarns. With our tape yarns you cannot go wrong: if you take good care of them, they will reward you by staying in your wardrobe for years and years. Head over to our online shop, pick your favourite colour, and cast on your maxi tank top right away!<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Tutorial how to knit a maxi tank top<\/h2>\n

MATERIALS
\n<\/b><\/span>Sailorman yarn<\/span><\/a><\/b> col. Sunset 200 g \/ 7 oz (for size M)<\/span>
\nKnitting needles n\u00b0 5 EU \/ 8 US<\/span>
\nCrochet hook n\u00b0 5 EU \/ H-8 US<\/span>
\nStitch holders<\/span>
\nYarn needle<\/span><\/p>\n

GAUGE – STOCKINETTE STITCH<\/span><\/b>
\n10 cm x 10 cm \/ 4″ x 4″<\/span>
\n12.5 stitches and 18 rows<\/span><\/p>\n

KNITTING STITCHES USED<\/span><\/b>
\nKnit<\/span>
\nPurl<\/span>
\nTwisted knit stitch<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
\nwork the stitch knitwise through the back loop of the stitch below.<\/span>
\nGarter stitch<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
\nwork all rows in knit stitch.<\/span>
\nStockinette stitch<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
\nrow 1: knit<\/span>
\nrow 2: purl.<\/span>
\nRepeat rows 1 and 2.<\/span>
\nSingle decrease (ssk)<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
\nslip 1 stitch knitwise to the right needle, knit the next stitch on the left needle, then pass the slipped (unworked) stitch over the stitch just knitted.<\/span>
\nRight-leaning lifted increase<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
\nlift the strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch and knit it through the back loop.<\/span><\/p>\n

CROCHET STITCHES USED<\/span><\/b>
\nSingle crochet<\/span><\/p>\n

SIZES<\/span><\/b>
\nInstructions are given for size S (M, L).<\/span><\/p>\n

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS SIZES S (M, L)<\/span><\/b>
\nBust circumference 72 (78, 88) cm \/ 28.3″ (30.7″, 34.6″)<\/span>
\nBack length 34 cm \/ 13.4″<\/span>
\nFront length to shoulder 48 (50, 52) cm \/ 19″ (19.7″, 20.5″)<\/span>
\nSide length 34 cm \/ 13.4″<\/span>
\nNeck opening 19 (19, 20.5) cm \/ 7.5″ (7.5″, 8″)<\/span><\/p>\n

DIFFICULTY<\/span><\/b>
\nIntermediate<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

METHOD<\/span><\/b><\/p>\n

The top is worked flat in 2 pieces, back and front, with the crossed back straps worked as a continuation of the front.<\/span><\/p>\n


\n<\/span><\/p>\n

How to work the back<\/h3>\n

With knitting needles n\u00b0 5 EU \/ 8 US, cast on 64 (70, 74) stitches and work 2 rows in garter stitch.<\/span><\/p>\n

Row 3<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 4<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 5<\/span><\/b>: knit<\/span>
\nrow 6<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrows 7 and 8<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 5 and 6<\/span>
\nrows 9 to 38 (9 to 26, 9 to 38)<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 3 to 8 another 5 (3, 5) times<\/span>
\nrows 39 to 62 (27 to 62, 39 to 62)<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 3 to 6 for 6 (9, 6) more times.<\/span><\/p>\n

At the end of row 62, measuring 34 cm \/ 13.4″, you have 40 (44, 50) stitches on the needle. Bind off.<\/span><\/p>\n


\n<\/span><\/p>\n

How to work the front and straps<\/h3>\n

With\u00a0<\/span>knitting needles n\u00b0 5 EU \/ 8 US<\/span>, cast on 74 (80, 84) stitches and work 2 rows in garter stitch.<\/span><\/p>\n

Row 3<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 4<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 5<\/span><\/b>: knit<\/span>
\nrow 6<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrows 7 and 8<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 5 and 6<\/span>
\nrows 9 to 50 (9 to 44, 9 to 62)<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 3 to 8 another 7 (6, 9) times<\/span>
\nrows 51 to 66 (45 to 68, 63 to 70)<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 3 to 6 for 4 (6, 2) more times<\/span>
\nrow 67 (69, 71)<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit the next 16 (18, 20) stitches, bind off the next 12 (12, 14) stitches for the neckline, knit the next 16 (18, 20) stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 68 (70, 72)<\/span><\/b>: purl the 18 (20, 22) stitches of the second side only. From now on, continue on this second side only and leave the stitches of the first side on a stitch holder; the instructions now continue separately for the 3 sizes.<\/span><\/p>\n

SIZE S<\/span><\/b>
\nRow 69<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit to the end of the row<\/span>
\nrow 70<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 71<\/span><\/b>: knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 72<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 73<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 74<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrows 75 and 76<\/span><\/b>: work as rows 71 and 72<\/span>
\nrows 77 to 84<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 73 to 76 two more times<\/span>
\nrow 85<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit 1, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 86<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 87<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 2 stitches (1 of them for the neckline) by knitting the next 3 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 88<\/span><\/b>: purl the 3 stitches.<\/span><\/p>\n

Return to the stitches of the first side and work them as for the second side, but mirrored.<\/span><\/p>\n

SIZE M<\/span><\/b>
\nRow 71<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 72<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 73<\/span><\/b>: knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 74<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrows 75 to 86<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 71 to 74 three more times<\/span>
\nrow 87<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit 2, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 88<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 89<\/span><\/b>: knit 3, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 90<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 91<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 2 stitches (1 of them for the neckline) by knitting the next 3 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 92<\/span><\/b>: purl the 3 stitches.<\/span><\/p>\n

Return to the stitches of the first side and work them as for the second side, but mirrored.<\/span><\/p>\n

SIZE L<\/span><\/b>
\nRow 73<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 74<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 75<\/span><\/b>: knit to the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 76<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrows 77 to 92<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 73 to 76 four more times<\/span>
\nrow 93<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 stitch for the neckline by working 1 single decrease over the next 2 stitches, knit 1, decrease 1 stitch by knitting the next 2 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 94<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 95<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 2 stitches by knitting the next 3 stitches together, knit the last stitch<\/span>
\nrow 96<\/span><\/b>: purl the 3 stitches.<\/span><\/p>\n

Return to the stitches of the first side and work them as for the second side, but mirrored.<\/span><\/p>\n

Row 88 (92, 96) completes the front. Now continue straight into the shoulders and crossed back straps: for clarity, row numbers start again from 1. Working separately over the 3 stitches of each strap, work in stockinette stitch for 18 (18, 20) rows, measuring 10 (10, 11) cm \/ 4″ (4″, 4.3″). Then join the two straps and work them together over all stitches.<\/span><\/p>\n

Row 19 (19, 21)<\/span><\/b>: knit the 3 stitches of the first strap, then continue and knit the 3 stitches of the second strap<\/span>
\nrow 20 (20, 22)<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 21 (21, 23)<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, work 1 right-leaning lifted increase, knit the next 4 stitches, work 1 right-leaning lifted increase, knit 1<\/span>
\nrow 22 (22, 24)<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrow 23 (23, 25)<\/span><\/b>: knit<\/span>
\nrow 24 (24, 26)<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
\nrows 25 to 32 (25 to 32, 27 to 38)<\/span><\/b>: repeat rows 21 to 24 (21 to 24, 23 to 26) another 2 (2, 3) times.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

All increases are complete and you have 12 (12, 14) stitches on the needle. Continue in stockinette stitch for another 12 (16, 14) rows: you will have worked up to row 44 (48, 52), measuring 24 (26, 28) cm \/ 9.4″ (10.2″, 11″). Place the stitches on a stitch holder.<\/span><\/p>\n


\n<\/span><\/p>\n

Finishing and edging<\/h4>\n

Sew the side seams along 34 cm \/ 13.4″ from the lower edge. With mattress stitch, join the last row of the crossed straps to the centre of the top edge of the back: first make a temporary seam (you can also pin the pieces together with a safety pin) and try the top on to make sure the strap length suits your measurements and reaches the back comfortably; if not, adjust your work accordingly. With a crochet hook n\u00b0 5 EU \/ 8-H US, work 1 round of single crochet along all upper edges of the top, leaving the lower edges unfinished.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Are you in the mood for a fresh, colourful maxi tank top with a sporty-chic T\u2011back neckline? Just follow this free pattern step by step and you are done. The great thing about this maxi tank top is the yarn: Sailorman is an easy-to-knit pure cotton tape yarn, available in lots of colours and made […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":49,"featured_media":100157,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8966,8951],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-100158","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-free-patterns-knit","category-knit"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHow to knit a maxi tank top with a T\u2011back neckline - DHG Shop<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Are you in the mood for a fresh, colourful maxi tank top with a sporty-chic T\u2011back neckline? 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