{"id":75448,"date":"2024-01-11T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-01-10T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dhgshop.it\/how-to-knit-a-fringed-sweater\/"},"modified":"2026-05-13T12:47:31","modified_gmt":"2026-05-13T10:47:31","slug":"how-to-knit-a-fringed-sweater","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dhgshop.performize.io\/en\/how-to-knit-a-fringed-sweater\/","title":{"rendered":"How to knit a fringed sweater"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Our Piuma yarn was designed specifically to make sweaters like the one we are presenting to you today, i.e. voluminous and super soft. The model you see is cropped and enriched with coloured fringes made with another of our beautiful yarns: Lagom. Made of recycled wool from rags and with shades making up three contrasting colours.<\/span><\/p>

We chose to create a sweater with a neutral base colour and fringes of harmonious colours. However, given the extensive colour range of Piuma and Lagom, you can really indulge your creative side and find the combo you like the most! Simply head over to our store and start dreaming.<\/span><\/p>

Ready? Let\u2019s go!<\/span><\/p>

Tutorial: how to knit a fringed sweater<\/h2>

MATERIALS
<\/b><\/span>Piuma yarn<\/a><\/b> col. Thyme 420 g \/ 14.8 oz for size M<\/span>
Threads of Lagom yarn<\/a><\/b> col. Coziness and Corn<\/span>
Knitting needles n\u00b0 8 EU \/ 11 US<\/span>
Circular knitting needles size n\u00b0 8 EU \/ 11 US with long cable<\/span>
Crochet hook n\u00b0 8 EU \/ L\/11 US for knotting the fringes<\/span>
Stitch markers<\/span>
Safety pins<\/span>
Wool needle<\/span><\/p>

GAUGE
<\/b><\/span>10 cm x 10 cm \/ 4″ x 4″<\/span>
10 stitches and 12 rows of<\/span>
stockinette stitch<\/span><\/p>

STITCHES USED
<\/b><\/span>Knit <\/span>
Purl<\/span>
Twisted right<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
knit the stitch in the back loop of the stitch below.<\/span>
Ribs 1\/1<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
alternate 1 knit and 1 purl on both the right side and the wrong side of the piece.<\/span>
1\/1 rib in the round<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
alternate 1 knit and 1 purl on each round.<\/span>
Stockinette stitch<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
row 1: knit.<\/span>
row 2: purl.<\/span>
Repeat rows 1 and 2.<\/span>
Increases<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
it is advised to knit into front and back (KFP) (= lift the thread between the stitch worked and the next and knit or purl 1 twisted depending on how the stitch looks).<\/span>
Simple stitch over<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
pass 1 stitch on the right needle without working it, knit the following stitch on the left needle and with the tip of the left needle pass the passed, or unworked, stitch.<\/span>
Double stitch over<\/span><\/u>:<\/span>
pass 1 stitch onto the right needle without working it, knit together the following 2 stitches on the left needle and with the tip of the left needle overlap the passed, or unworked, stitch.<\/span><\/p>

SIZE
<\/b><\/span>The instructions are given for size S (M, L)<\/span>
<\/p>

MEASUREMENTS OF FINISHED GARMENT SIZE S (M, L)<\/b><\/span>
Bust circumference 93 (97, 101) cm \/ 36.6″ (38.2″, 39.8″)<\/span>
Total height 49 (51, 53) cm \/ 19.3″ (20.1″, 20.9″)<\/span>
Height from underarm 27 cm \/ 10.6″<\/span>
Neck opening 16 (16, 18) cm \/ 6.3″ (6.3″, 7.1″)<\/span>
Sleeve width at the top 38 (40, 42) cm \/ 15″ (15.7″, 16.5″)<\/span>
Sleeve length from underarm 44 (42, 40) cm \/ 17.3″ (16.5″, 15.7″)<\/span><\/p>

DIFFICULTY
<\/b><\/span>Intermediate<\/span><\/p>

METHOD<\/span><\/b><\/p>

The sweater is worked flat and is made up of 4 pieces: the back, the front and the sleeves. The neck and bottom edge are worked in the round after picking up the stitches.<\/span><\/p>


<\/span><\/p>

How to knit the back<\/h3>

With the Piuma yarn and needles n\u00b0 8 EU \/ 11 US cast on 46 (48, 50) stitches and work 32 rows in stockinette stitch, equal to 27 cm \/ 10.6″.<\/span><\/p>

Now start decreasing for the raglan armholes: for simplicity, the row count starts from 1 again.<\/span>
<\/p>

Row 1<\/b>: close 3 (3, 2) stitches, continue with stockinette stitch to the end of the row.<\/span>
row 2<\/b>: work in stockinette stitch until the last 3 (3, 2) stitches, close 3 (3, 2) stitches<\/span>
row 3<\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 by knitting 1 simple stitch over on the next 2 stitches, continue knitting until the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 by knitting 2 stitches together on the next 2 stitches, knit last stitch <\/span>
row 4<\/b>: purl.<\/span><\/p>

Rows 3 and 4 set the decreases of 1 stitch at the sides, 1 stitch from the edge, for the raglan armholes.<\/span><\/p>

Repeat them another 11 (12, 13) times<\/b>: getting to row 26 (28, 30), equal to 22 (24, 26) cm \/ 8.7″ (9.5″, 10.2″), with 16 (16, 18) stitches on the needle.<\/span><\/p>

Bind off.<\/span><\/p>


<\/span><\/p>

How to knit the front<\/h3>

Start by working the two halves of the front piece separately.<\/span><\/p>

For the first half, cast on 18 (19, 20) stitches with Piuma yarn and needles n\u00b0 8 EU \/ 11 US.<\/span><\/p>

Row 1<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, 1 increase (KFP), continue knitting to the end of the row.<\/span>
row 2<\/span><\/b>: purl.<\/span><\/p>

Rows 1 and 2 set the stockinette stitch with increases, repeat them 4 more times (getting to row 10). Leave the 23 (24, 25) stitches obtained on a safety pin.<\/span><\/p>

Work the second half mirroring the first.<\/span><\/p>

Join the two halves as follows: on the right side pick up and knit first the 23 (24, 25) stitches of the first half, then the 23 (24, 25) stitches of the second half. Starting with 1 row of purl on the wrong side, continue in stockinette stitch over the 46 (48, 50) stitches for another 21 rows, equal to 32 rows in total and 27 cm \/ 10.6″.<\/span><\/p>

Now start decreasing for the raglan armholes: for simplicity, the row count starts from 1 again.<\/span><\/p>

Row 1<\/span><\/b>: bind off 3 (3, 2) stitches, continue with stockinette to the end of the row.<\/span>
row 2<\/span><\/b>: work in stockinette until the last 3 (3, 2) stitches, bind off 3 (3, 2) stitches.<\/span>
row 3<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 by knitting 1 simple stitch over on the next 2 stitches, continue knitting until the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together on the next 2 stitches, knit the last stitch. <\/span>
row 4<\/span><\/b>: purl.<\/span><\/p>

Rows 3 and 4 set the decreases of 1 at the sides, 1 stitch from the edge, for the raglan armholes. Repeat them another 7 (8, 9) times: getting to row 18 (20, 22), equal to 15 (17, 19) cm \/ 5.9″ (6.7″, 7.5″), with 24 (24, 26) stitches on the needle.<\/span><\/p>

Now, bind off the central stitches for the neckline and continue separately on the two parts, continuing the decreases for the raglan armhole and for the neckline.<\/span><\/p>

Row 19<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 by working 1 simple stitch over on the next 2 stitches, knit 4 stitches, bind off 10 (10, 12) stitches for the neckline, knit 4 stitches, decrease 1 by working Knit 2 stitches together over the next 2 stitches, knit the last stitch<\/span>
row 20<\/span><\/b>: purl the 6 remaining stitches from the first part<\/span>
row 21<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 by working 1 simple stitch over on the next 2 stitches, knit 1, decrease 1 by working 1 simple stitch over on the last 2 stitches<\/span>
row 22<\/span><\/b>: purl the remaining 4 stitches<\/span>
row 23<\/span><\/b>: decrease 2 by knitting 1 single stitch over the first 2 stitches and knitting 2 stitches together over the last 2 stitches<\/span>
row 24<\/span><\/b>: purl the 2 remaining stitches<\/span>
row 25<\/span><\/b>: knit 2 together over the 2 stitches<\/span>
row 26<\/span><\/b>: purl the remaining stitch. Fasten the stitch.<\/span><\/p>

Pick up the stitches in the second part of the front and continue by mirroring the first part, decreasing for the raglan armhole and the neckline. Once you have reached the same height as the first part, fasten the remaining stitch.<\/span><\/p>

How to knit the sleeves<\/h3>

Commence from the right sleeve.<\/span><\/p>

With the Piuma yarn and needles n\u00b0 8 EU \/ 11 US cast on 22 (24, 26) stitches and work 8 rows in rib 1\/1.<\/span><\/p>

Row 9<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, 1 increase (KFP), continue knitting until the last stitch, work 1 increase (KFP), knit 1 <\/span>
row 10<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
row 11<\/span><\/b>: knit<\/span>
row 12<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
row 13<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, 1 increase (KFP), continue knitting until the last stitch, work 1 increased (KFP), knit 1 <\/span>
row 14<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
row 15<\/span><\/b>: knit<\/span>
row 16<\/span><\/b>: purl<\/span>
row 17<\/span><\/b>: knit<\/span>
row 18<\/span><\/b>: purl.<\/span><\/p>

Rows from 9 to 18 set the stockinette stitch with increases repeat 3 more times: you will reach row 48, equal to 40 cm \/ 15.7″, with 38 (40, 42) stitches on the needle.<\/span><\/p>

Work another 4 (2, 0) rows in stocking stitch without increases: getting to row 52 (50, 48), equal to 44 (42, 40) cm \/ 17.3″ (16.5″, 15.7″).<\/span><\/p>

Now start decreasing for the raglan armholes: for simplicity, the row count starts again from 1 for all sizes.<\/span><\/p>

Row 1<\/span><\/b>: bind off 3 (3, 2) stitches, continue with stockinette stitch to the end of the row<\/span>
row 2<\/span><\/b>: work in stockinette stitch until the last 3 (3, 2) stitches, bind off 3 (3, 2) stitches<\/span>
row 3<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 2 by knitting 1 double stitch over on the next 3 stitches, continue knitting until the last 4 stitches, decrease 2 by knitting 3 stitches together over the next 3 stitches, knit the last stitch<\/span>
row 4<\/span><\/b>: purl.<\/span><\/p>

Rows 3 and 4 set the decreases of 2 stitches at the sides, 1 stitch from the edge, for the raglan armholes. Repeat 1 (1, 2) more times: getting to row 6 (6, 8) with 24 (26, 26) stitches on the needle.<\/span><\/p>

Row 7 (7, 9)<\/span><\/b>: knit 1, decrease 1 by knitting 1 single stitch together over the next 2 stitches, continue knitting until the last 3 stitches, decrease 1 by knitting 2 stitches together over the next 2 stitches, knit the last stitch.<\/span>
row 8 (8, 10)<\/span><\/b>: purl.<\/span><\/p>

Rows 7 (7, 9) and 8 (8, 10) set the decreases of 1 stitch at the sides, 1 stitch from the edge, for the raglan armholes.<\/span><\/p>

Repeat another 9 (10, 10) times: getting to row 26 (28, 30), equal to 22 (24, 26) cm \/ 8.7″ (9.5″, 10.2″), with 4 stitches on the needle.<\/span><\/p>

Bind off.<\/span><\/p>

Work the left sleeve as instructed for the right sleeve.<\/span><\/p>


<\/span><\/p>

How to knit the neck<\/h3>

Sew the 4 armholes in a raglan pattern: for an invisible seam, sew with mattress stitch.<\/span><\/p>

With Piuma yarn and circular needles size n\u00b0 8 EU \/ 11 US pick up the stitches in odd numbers around the front and back of the neckline: pick up approximately 1 stitch in each stitch and at each end of the row and 2 stitches in relation to the seams and roundings.<\/span><\/p>

With the tip of the left needle, overlap the last stitch taken over the first, binding off in the round: insert 1 stitch marker to count the number of rounds performed. Work rib 1\/1 for 18 rounds, then bind off.<\/span><\/p>

How to knit the bottom edge<\/h3>

For an invisible seam, sew with mattress stitch. Close the underarms and sides.<\/span><\/p>

With Piuma yarn and circular needles size n\u00b0 8 EU \/ 11 US pick up stitches in an odd number around the lower edge of the back and front: pick up approximately 1 stitch in each stitch and 2 stitches at the seams.<\/span><\/p>

With the tip of the left needle, overlap the last stitch taken over the first, bind off in the round: insert 1 stitch marker to count the number of rounds performed. Work in 1\/1 rib for 6 rounds, then bind off.<\/span><\/p>

How to make the finishing touches<\/h4>

The front is decorated with 60 fringes, 30 with Lagom yarn col. Corn and 30 with Lagom yarn col. Coziness.<\/span><\/p>

They are arranged on two levels to form broken diagonal lines: you can follow the photo or proceed as you like, knotting them according to your taste.<\/span><\/p>

For each fringe, cut 6 threads 20 cm \/ 7.9″ long each. Fold each group in half to form a loop and knot each fringe in 1 already worked stitch using the crochet hook.<\/span><\/p>

Looking at the sweater worn, the fringes are distributed in the centre of the front, distanced a few rows apart between the top and bottom groups, approximately like so: top left, 6 Corn fringes on the left diagonal and 3 Corn fringes on the diagonal To the right; top right, 6 Coziness fringes on the left diagonal and 2 Coziness fringes + 4 Corn fringes on the right diagonal; bottom left, 7 Corn fringes on the left diagonal, 5 Coziness fringes on the central diagonal and 6 Coziness fringes on the right diagonal; bottom right, 5 Corn fringes on the left diagonal, 5 Corn fringes on the central diagonal and 11 Coziness fringes on the right horizontal line.<\/span><\/p>

If you enjoyed knitting this fringed sweater and would like to continue experimenting with this technique, we recommend reading our section dedicated to free knitting tutorials<\/a><\/b>.<\/span><\/p>

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Our Piuma yarn was designed specifically to make sweaters like the one we are presenting to you today, i.e. voluminous and super soft. The model you see is cropped and enriched with coloured fringes made with another of our beautiful yarns: Lagom. Ma…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":49,"featured_media":29248,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8966,8951],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-75448","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-free-patterns-knit","category-knit"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHow to knit a fringed sweater - DHG Shop<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Tutorial for knitting a fringed sweater. 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